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Postcards from Palm Springs: Modern Gems in the Desert

Postcards from Palm Springs: Modern Gems in the Desert

Michael DiTullo & Kristina DiTullo

Next we headed over to the North side of town—the Elizabeth Park neighborhood—made up of over 20 blocks of Alexander-built homes, many designed by Donald Wexler. Originally constructed as affordable housing and vacation homes, lots of these small houses are not insulated, but have huge, classic swimming pools. Many are extremely run down and dilapidated; it’s an odd sight to see the future in disrepair. And as little as 4 years ago you could pick up one of these butterfly-roofed beauties for under $100,000. They have recently come into vogue, however. (30-something LA folks who can’t afford houses in LA, but who can get a piece of mid-century modern for a song.) So about 25% have been beautifully renovated, and those go for an average of just under a half a million. But you get that pool.

Driving away from town we stumbled upon some of the tour highlights of the Dwell Conference. To our surprise, the magazine was not only there for the classic homes; Dwell was promoting what some builders were calling New Century Architecture. On the outskirts of town, a half-dozen new developments are under construction, taking the best from contemporary urban planning and accessible design, but staying true to the roots of Palm Springs. To us, they look straight out of a Mies van der Rohe sketchbook.

Just a bit farther, we took a few minutes and pulled over to walk through the windmill farm. We had never seen one this big in the United States, and the mills tower over you. Some are brand new and gleaming, others from the 1970’s. From the ground, they seem arranged in random rows and formations; we go ahead get lost among them.

Another 45 minutes drive and we’re in the Joshua Tree National Park. We planned to stay for a couple of hours, but the natural wonder changed our minds. The moon was full that night, and the park was breathtaking. Peaceful, serene, perfect.

On our last day, we dropped into the Palm Springs Art Museum. (It is an awkward, Brutalist structure, but the collection boasted a Rothko, Duane Hanson, and several Helen Lundeberg’s. The Jim Isermann piece as you ascend the stairs is amazing.) And here’s the irony: At the time we were there, the Museum had a show of modern architecture from around the world, packed with architects’ sketches and huge models. A fitting bookend to an inspiring vacation.


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